Selime and Ihlara Valley

 Guzelyurt hotel owner a bit worried we wouldn't make our connection, so writes on a piece of paper: Selime / Intersection / Kick me out! It seemed to work with our bus driver, and after a short trip, we find ourselves at a random intersection and a 3km walk to our next - extremely modest - accommodation.

 We have arrived at the top end of a 14km canyon walk. Today, however, it's a cruisy time in a sleeeeepy town. What to do, what to do?

 Choice #1: food. How does trout, fresh mixed salad, pickles, fresh cut turkish bread and a plate of chips sound? How bout eating it with some (recommended, so we had to) raki with some kind of chilli drink in separate glasses sound? How bout we eat it right by the river, under some shady trees with low-slung seats and turkish carpets/cushions all around? Yes, yes and yes. Almost as good as a happy meal from McDonalds (happier, but no arches and cost a lot more!).

 Choice #2: let's go shopping! Uh oh, the place we are staying at is owned by Mustafa, whose main line is carpets. It's a hot day, it's cool inside, the apple tea is gratis, and we have hours to kill.... 5 carpets later, money has changed hands and we are worrying about our check in baggage! There's a big one, there's a square one, there's two small prayer rugs (no they're not, but that's the size), there's a mule/donkey saddle bag (just because mary wanted some action and daughter kim loves donkeys) and a cushion carpet covered thingy was thrown in as well. Together with the other medium sized carpet we bought when we some time to kill in some underground city somewhere, a trend begins to emerge: too much time = carpets for africa. Anyways, what can you do?

 Later...A village tea and a clandestine trip to the Selime rock-cut monastery where our guide circumvents the ticket office with a hair-raising climb up the side of a mountain. Too much for Mary who retreats for tea and conversation with locals where her knees gradually go from jelly to normal. David not so smart and follows mountain goat (guide) up hill. Going too fast to feel the fear, because any slower and he'd fall off the side of the precipitations (new word = precipitous slopes). This, despite said goat carrying camera and backpack until on level ground. Hmmm. Guess it was worth it. Pleased to make it back to base, ready for the big trip tomorrow.

 Photo taken of Mary's new-found friends. Copies to be sent. No one has an email address ("we are not so rich"). Humbling. Turns out goat is the #10 child (from one mother, he assures us). Mother now dead and group visiting to pay respects at nearby cemetery.

 And on we go.

 Next day is one of my favourite days so far - a 14km (if you believe the guide books - we thought more like 10km) down the Ihlara Valley. We set out early and we have the place to ourselves. The air is cool, the river is rippling, the trees are shady and the sun is shining on the canyon walls. It doesn't get too much better than this.

 The Ihlara gorge is a big version of the one we walked in Guzelyurt and it's very impressive. The steep sided walls have caves and churches with frescoes, most damaged but some still pretty cool. Trees provide a lot of shade for the mostly flat walk, and we don't meet a single person for a couple of hours into the trip. Just magic.

 The hard work comes in climbing up to the churches and (especially) climbing out of the canyon when we get to the end at Ihlara village. However, some magnum icecreams and turkish juice mix seem to revive spirits, and we've arrived at our accommodation by before 1pm, feeling really pleased with ourselves on a job well done. The afternoon is spent doing a big wash and relaxing, and then we have an excellent dinner of trout (superb) and chicken (terrible) and meet some other kiwis travelling - they live and work in dubai.