Istanbul

Day 1 was about getting ourbearings, we had some rain and (gosh!) cold, so decided to keep under shelter and went to the Grand Bazaar. Lots of coloured lights and almost more salesmen than customers this early in the morning. What's to buy? David got interested in some local stringed thingys, plates and glassware etc etc etc

From there to the Suleymaniye Mosque, very grand on a hill, and then a walk down past 3-4 storey traditional wooden houses in various states of repair, to the New Mosque and Spice Bazaar. Lots of little streets and huge crowds, we got lost. a lot. Eventually all roads led back to Sultanahmet and home. Good day. Out for an evening walk around the Blue Mosque (photo)

And so to Day 2. Already having a riotious time. Enjoying the Turkish salesman patter, which has to be amongst the best in the world: "Sir, you have a strange walk..." (can I sell you some shoes?), "Sir, tonight dinner for men free but the ladies pay" (sounds good, oh wait, Mary has to pay for me too!). Most impressive so far is the dude standing in the middle of the street outside his restaurant holding a hot plate sizzling with meat and herbs, hoping that the wafting smells will entice you in. Good job, that! Small problem: the street is wall to wall restaurants both sides - why would we go to his one?!! 

Today is a sight-seeing day. First up is Hagia Sophia (Church of the Divine Wisdom), a sprawling edifice on the outside and something quite sublime on the inside. Soaring spaces with a huge dome, frescoes, and lots of people. Impressive rather than inspirational. Clanging hammers on a stack of scaffolding didn't help.

 

Then to the underground cistern, a huge water reservoir held up by 360 columns (our hotel is called Broken Column, btw), a stack of 'atmospheric' red lights and a pile of fish. Story goes that back in the day people used to go fishing in here!

 

Lunch at a local lokanta, where you choose your dishes from trays in the window. All done with great efficiency and style. Great feed for a good price. Food here looks great but seems a little bland (for tourists?). Mary's enjoying the fresh and unadulerated nature of the food - lots to eat for her and so far people seem to get the idea of what being allergic to wheat flour means. Nice change from what we're used to. Nothing is out of bounds for the tourist dollar.Want sufi dancing while you have your meal? No problem, we will pay some guy to become one with the universe whilst you eat your meatballs. Hmmm...